A Switch that will not charge is the most common way one of these dies — and it is usually not the battery. Card readers, Joy-Con drift and unlocks all live on this page too.
The Switch charges through a USB-C port that takes constant strain from docking, undocking and being played while plugged in. Behind that port sits a small chip that manages charging. When either one fails, the console stops taking power and eventually looks completely dead.
That is why we treat this as a charging system repair rather than just a port swap. Replacing the port alone on a console whose charging chip has failed gets you a console that still will not charge.
Mechanical strain on the port, and heat on the chip behind it. Charging while playing handheld is the most common way to accelerate both, and third-party docks and chargers have historically been rough on the charging circuit.
Card reader failures are usually contamination and wear in the slot, or a failed reader assembly. On the Switch 2 the reader is a replaceable module, which makes it a straightforward fix rather than a write-off.
For charging, we replace the USB-C port and any failed chips in the charging circuit on the motherboard — the full path, not just the connector. That is what brings a genuinely dead Switch back rather than half-fixing it.
Card readers get a new reader module and a full test with multiple cartridges. Joy-Cons get TMR sticks, a newer sensor design that does not wear down the way stock sticks do.
We also install modchips for custom software and game backups — V1, V2 and Lite at one price, OLED slightly higher because it is a harder board to work on. Ask us what a modded Switch can actually do before you commit; it is a bigger world than most people expect.
We handle Wii U, 3DS, DS and Game Boy charging ports and cart readers too. No upfront cost, 90-day warranty. See all pricing →
Usually neither on its own — it’s the charging circuit. A Switch that won’t charge often has a failed chip behind the port as well, which is why we replace the whole charging path rather than just swapping the connector.
Often not. A dead Switch is very frequently a charging-circuit failure, which means it isn’t charging rather than isn’t working. Bring it in and we’ll find out for nothing upfront.
It lets the console run custom software and play game backups you own. Installs are $100 for V1, V2 and Lite, or $120 for OLED. Come ask what it makes possible — it’s the fun end of what we do.
Yes, with TMR sticks — $20 for one or $35 for both. Joy-Cons drift more than any controller we see, so we install a stick design that isn’t on the same wear clock.
Walk in at 507 N Geneva Rd in Lindon, Utah — minutes from Orem, Provo, American Fork and Pleasant Grove. Anywhere else in the country, ship it to us and we'll send a prepaid label.