No light, no fan, no beep — or one short beep and nothing. It feels terminal. It usually is not: a console that will not power on is almost always a single shorted component on the board.
This is the repair people are most likely to give up on, and the one where giving up costs the most. “Won’t turn on” sounds like the whole machine died. In practice a console is a power system feeding a lot of small parts, and when one of those parts shorts, the power system correctly refuses to start.
Find the short, replace the part, and the console comes back. That is board-level repair, and it is what most shops send away.
Most of the time a component on the board has shorted internally. Once that happens, the power supply sees the fault and shuts everything down instead of pushing current into it — which is exactly what you want it to do.
Power surges, age, heat and liquid are the usual triggers. What matters is that the failed part is typically small, cheap, and replaceable — the console around it is fine.
We put the board on the bench and trace where the short is, then identify the specific component that failed and replace it. That is genuinely diagnostic work rather than swapping parts until something changes, which is why we quote it after we have looked rather than before.
Liquid damage and surge damage fall in the same category: they are recoverable more often than people expect, and the sooner it comes in the better the odds. A console that sat wet for a month is a harder job than one that came in the next day.
You pay nothing upfront. We tell you what we find, quote you, and if the board genuinely is not worth saving we will say so instead of running up a bill.
Nothing is due until your console is working again. Repairs carry a 90-day warranty. See all pricing →
Usually not. “Won’t power on” is almost always a shorted component rather than a dead console. We trace the short, find the bad part and replace it — so bring it in before you write it off.
Because no honest shop can. Every no-power console needs to go on the bench to find where the fault is. We’ll tell you what we find and quote you before doing any work, and you pay nothing until it’s fixed.
Often yes, and speed matters. Don’t try to power it on to test it — that’s what turns a recoverable board into a dead one. Bring it in as soon as you can.
Then you don’t pay. We’ll also tell you honestly whether it’s worth repairing versus replacing, and what your options are for pulling data or salvaging parts.
Walk in at 507 N Geneva Rd in Lindon, Utah — minutes from Orem, Provo, American Fork and Pleasant Grove. Anywhere else in the country, ship it to us and we'll send a prepaid label.