Console won’t turn on?
No light, no fan, no beep — or one short beep and nothing. It feels terminal. It usually is not: a console that will not power on is almost always a single shorted component on the board.
This is the repair people are most likely to give up on, and the one where giving up costs the most. “Won’t turn on” sounds like the whole machine died. In practice a console is a power system feeding a lot of small parts, and when one of those parts shorts, the power system correctly refuses to start.
Find the short, replace the part, and the console comes back. That is board-level repair, and it is what most shops send away.
Sounds like your problem?
- Nothing at all — no light, no fan, no sound.
- It beeps once or clicks, then goes silent.
- The light comes on and immediately goes off.
- It died suddenly after a power flicker or a storm.
- It powered off mid-game and never came back.
What actually went wrong
Most of the time a component on the board has shorted internally. Once that happens, the power supply sees the fault and shuts everything down instead of pushing current into it — which is exactly what you want it to do.
Power surges, age, heat and liquid are the usual triggers. What matters is that the failed part is typically small, cheap, and replaceable — the console around it is fine.
How we fix it
We put the board on the bench and trace where the short is, then identify the specific component that failed and replace it. That is genuinely diagnostic work rather than swapping parts until something changes, which is why we quote it after we have looked rather than before.
Liquid damage and surge damage fall in the same category: they are recoverable more often than people expect, and the sooner it comes in the better the odds. A console that sat wet for a month is a harder job than one that came in the next day.
Dead consoles are one flat price, so you know the cost before you hand it over — no quote to wait on. Nothing is due upfront. If we can’t bring it back, you pay only the $39 diagnostic for the bench time. Liquid damage and chip-level faults (APU, RAM, SSD controller) are advanced board work: we text you a firm price before doing it, starting at $250, and it takes 5–10 business days. If a repair would cost more than the console is worth, we’ll tell you straight and make you an offer for it.
Straight answers
Is my console actually dead?
Usually not. “Won’t power on” is almost always a shorted component rather than a dead console. We trace the short, find the bad part and replace it — so bring it in before you write it off.
How much will it cost?
One flat price: PS5 or Xbox Series X $199, Series S $169, Switch $120, PS4, Xbox One, PS3 or 360 $129. That covers the usual causes — shorted parts, power circuits, blown chips we can replace. The only exceptions are heavy liquid damage, consoles someone else already opened, and chip reballs; those are advanced board work from $250, and we text you the price before doing it.
It got wet. Is there any hope?
Often yes, and speed matters. Don’t try to power it on to test it — that’s what turns a recoverable board into a dead one. Bring it in as soon as you can.
What if it can’t be saved?
Then you pay only the $39 diagnostic — never the repair price. We’ll also tell you honestly whether it’s worth repairing, and if it isn’t, we can make you an offer to buy it for parts.
Walk in at 507 N Geneva Rd in Lindon, Utah — minutes from Orem, Provo, American Fork and Pleasant Grove. Anywhere else in the country, ship it to us and we’ll send a prepaid label.
Don’t see your console?
If it has a circuit board, chances are we can fix it, mod it, or bring it back from the dead. Reach out and let’s talk.